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PUPPY HEALTH PROTOCOL |
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Dogs can be a very important part of your family and it is our goal to keep them healthy, active and enable them to live long lives. This all begins as a puppy and our recommendations for a long and healthy life are as follows. |
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When the puppy is 6-8 weeks of age we begin with a thorough physical exam,
microscopically check a stool sample for intestinal parasites, start on a vaccination program, and start on heartworm prevention.
The vaccinations are to protect the puppy from Parvo Virus, Distemper Virus and Canine Hepatitis are given every 3 weeks until the puppy is 16-18 weeks old. These boosters are very important due to the fact that the puppy’s immune systems are immature and are unable to maintain a good level of protection until they are 16 weeks old. At 16 weeks of age a Rabies vaccine is given to protect them from this very serious disease which can also affect humans.
Intestinal parasites such as hookworms, whipworms, roundworms, tapeworms and coccidia can seriously affect your pet’s health and sometimes your childrens as well.
Checking for these parasites and treating are a very important part of maintaining good health.
Heartworms are another serious parasite that are transmitted by mosquitos. They get into the blood stream and eventually end up in the heart where they can cause serious disease and even death. We prevent this by giving your puppy an oral tablet on each visit and having the owners continuing it at home on a monthly basis.
Another important part of keeping your new dog healthy is diet. Your new puppy requires the proper nutrition for growth and we recommend feeding a good quality puppy food until they reach 1 year of age. We feel that Science Diet Growth is
unsurpassed as a diet for your puppy during this first year.
We also strongly urge you to spay or neuter your new puppy at 5-6 months of age. This not only prevents pregnancy but also lessens the chances of them developing mammary cancer, testicular cancer, prostatic disease and uterine infections. |
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We hope this information will be helpful. Thank you for your business and please contact us if you have any further questions or concerns. |
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GOOD BEHAVIOR FOR PUPPIES |
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By living with your pet, body cues as well as verbal communication become very important to your animal. Paying close attention to your own body cues will help overcome the language barrier that exists between dogs and humans. Did you ever wonder just how a dog knows you are heading for the flea spray when the dog food is kept in the very same cabinet? The dog can sense what you are doing from your body gesture. For example, when you are heading to get the flea spray you may tip your hand differently from when you are getting the dog food. Since dogs are
exceptional at reading body cues they are able to pick up on this type of gesture and distinguish the flea spray from the dog food.
Dogs are also very interested in determining who will be the leader of the pack. In your home it is important to help your puppy learn that he does not lead the pack within the family, but is a well taken care of member of this family. Listed below are some exercises that may help reinforce this aspect to your puppy. Please remember that you should NEVER try to frighten or intimidate your puppy and that all of these
exercises should be done quietly, gently and patiently.
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EXERCISE 1: Pick up the puppy by carefully supporting it under his chest. Hold the puppy for five counts. If the puppy is not wriggling or squirming, praise him
lavishly and gently set him down. Continue progressing in small increments of counting (seven seconds, ten seconds, etc.) until you can hold the puppy for about one minute without resistance. Anytime there is squirming or wriggling, calmly ignore this behavior until it stops. When the puppy is still then give praise. Do not let the puppy down when there is wriggling behavior since this would signify to the puppy that wriggling or squirming is its cue to you that he is leading the
holding session.
EXERCISE 2: This exercise is best performed when the puppy is tired. Sit on the floor or on a chair with the puppy in your lap. Gently turn the puppy on its back while in your arms as though you are cradling a baby. Speak softly and calmly. If the puppy is calm then let him up. Cradle him this way up to one minute in
progressive moments as done in exercise one. Again be sure not to let him up while he is squirming or wriggling and remember this exercise is best practiced when the
puppy is tired.
EXERCISE 3: At feeding time, sit quietly holding the puppy’s food bowl and place a food treat in the bowl. Praise the puppy quietly as you are placing the treat in the bowl. After filling the food with the puppy’s dinner, stand next to the food bowl while the puppy is eating. Place a food treat in the bowl every few bites.
Progress to sliding the bowl away from the puppy and then pick up the bowl to place the treat in it. These steps can be done one at a time per day so that the puppy is not overwhelmed with changes in the feeding habits. Also, gently touch the puppy while it is eating, progressing to petting or hugging. This exercise is especially important if children will be around the puppy since children have a tendency to be active and excited around the pet. Once the puppy has learned to not be afraid of movement or disturbances while it is eating, occasionally revisit and practice
this exercise.
EXERCISE 4: Practice handling the puppy’s feet, ears and muzzle. Try looking in the puppy’s mouth for practice, too. This exercise will benefit the puppy when it is time for veterinary visits. Also, combing or brushing will help the puppy get used to being groomed. Mostly, remember to use very gentle techniques and also lots of praise for good behavior. Again, remember to expect only a few seconds of
cooperation at first, building up slowly to longer sessions. |
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What about all of that playful biting?
Puppies interact with their world by using their mouth sometimes. If your puppy bites one of his litter siblings there would be a shrill toned “yip” in response. This “yip” is teaching each other that kind of bite is too hard. You can communicate with your puppy by using a similar yip. If the puppy is trying to bite you, it is important to NOT jerk your hand away quickly since this kind of response will encourage the puppy to try and catch your hand and possibly bite even harder. If your yip does not make the puppy stop nipping at you then stand up, turn and walk away. This reaction tells the puppy that he is being too rough and that you do not want to play with him anymore. If he does stop nipping at you when you yip then praise the puppy quietly. Be sure not to grab at the puppy’s nose, wrestle, or play tug of war games with the puppy since this may encourage rough behavior traits within the puppy.
Suggested reading and video list:
How To Raise A Puppy You Can Live With, Rutherford and Neil;
What All Good Dogs Should Know, Volhard and Bartlett;
Don’t Shoot the Dog, Karen Pryor;
Leader of the Pack, Baer and Duno.
Video:“Sirius Puppy Training”, Ian Dunbar.
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We hope this information on dog behavior will be helpful. Thank you for your business and please contact us if you have any further questions or concerns. Cardinal Animal Hospital |
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HOUSEBREAKING MADE EASY |
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Congratulations on your new bundle of fur! You may want to start acquiring some of the items below as you begin to “potty-train” your new puppy: |
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A Crate (kennel) |
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Old Towels for Bedding |
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Puppy Food |
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Collar (not a choke chain) |
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Leash |
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Brush, Comb & Grooming Supplies |
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Pet-Odor Remover |
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The thought of housebreaking a puppy invokes groans from some people and induces anxiety attacks in others. However, housebreaking does not need to be a difficult or painful chore. With the right approach and some consistent efforts, your puppy can be housebroken faster than you ever dreamed possible. The keys to quick success are a training crate, a watchful parent and a consistent plan of action.
The Crate, A Safe Haven
Before going any further, it is necessary to dispel any horrible thoughts of putting your dog, a trusted member of the family and a faithful companion into a cage. Notice the word ‘cage’ is a four-lettered word. Forget the word cage. From now on, think of using the word ‘crate’ and think of this word as the dog’s very own den or safe haven. Since canine species are den animals, perhaps that is why the family dog likes to relax under the kitchen table, under a bed, or any similar space close to where the family spends a lot of time. The crate can provide this sought after
atmosphere of a den, contributing to the dog’s sense of security. Also, providing only a rug, mat or an open dog bed during unsupervised times gives a puppy a lot of freedom to roam and possibly encounter hazardous situations or treasured
possessions. With appropriate bedding in a crate, the puppy is protected from lures such as electrical cords or new shoes. Since the crate can be used to help eliminate the unsupervised roaming, the use of the crate helps protect both your possessions and your dog.
Introducing the Crate
Your puppy’s first experience with its crate should be pleasant. Place the crate on the floor and allow the puppy time to sniff around the crate. Prop the door open and place a few treats just inside the door. As the puppy develops more courage, toss the treats to the back of the crate so that the puppy must go inside to retrieve the
goodies. Also, line the crate floor with newspapers, blankets or towels. When the puppy is comfortable in the crate, close the door and leave it shut for a few minutes. Let the dog out without ceremony. Repeat the process several times, gradually extending the length of the closed-door sessions. However, if the puppy is hesitant about entering the crate, DO NOT force the puppy through the crate door. Try
feeding the puppy in the crate for a day or two and cheerfully chat with the dog while it is eating. Lure the puppy into the crate with its food dish, then put the dish at the front of the crate. The puppy will not feel trapped if it faces the open crate door. So when the puppy is comfortable in its crate, it is time to take advantage of all the wonderful uses for this marvelous invention. |
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Housebreaking With A Crate
Following this easy schedule will help housebreaking be as easy as falling in love with your puppy!
MORNING: The “first thing” to do in the morning may have to be done earlier than you had in mind! At the first peep, whine or bark in the morning, open the crate door and immediately lead the puppy to the exact spot that is wanted for the dog to continuously use for elimination. Also, try to stand and let the puppy wander about on its leash, remembering, this is not a walk but a “business trip”. During this outing, use a term you have chosen to use each time for elimination. Some common terms are “potty”, “go pee” or the one that makes some people feel better on snowy mornings, “hurry-up”. Once you have chosen a word or phrase make sure everyone in the family uses it. Also, as the puppy piddles or has a bowel movement, reward the puppy with positive words, such as “good dog” then take the puppy back inside. As the puppy matures, instead of going back inside, a walk could be started or free play in a fenced in yard could begin.
If the puppy messes in the crate before waking you, DO NOT scold the puppy. Just be sure to set the alarm for 15 or 20 minutes earlier and also make sure the puppy relieves itself before going into the crate at night. Changing the feeding schedule and removing the water dish a little earlier may also help. Please remember that the goal is prevention, not punishment.
As for breakfast, allow for 15 to 20 minutes for the puppy to dine before removing the dish. Take the puppy back outside to the same spot and if no interest is shown then play or walk in the vicinity of the spot, continuously returning to that particular place. It is important to be there to verbally praise the puppy when it does use that spot.
DAYTIME: Be sure to monitor your puppy’s activities throughout the day. When the puppy sniffs, walks in circles and/or appears anxious, it is time to go to the “potty spot” with the puppy. The success to housebreaking depends on the quickness of the response to the puppy’s cues. Eventually, the puppy will try to go to the “potty spot” on its own. Until the puppy has mastered the use of the spot, be very attentive to the puppy’s actions and try to help it refrain from making a “mistake”.
If the puppy must be left alone while you are in the house or if you plan on being gone for only a few hours, place the crate in a restricted area, such as a kitchen or bathroom, with a gate across the door but leave the crate door open. Turn a radio on low (dogs have super hearing) and put some safe toys in the crate. Also, be certain the room is free of anything that may endanger the puppy or be hazardous to the puppy if ingested.
However, if you plan on being gone for more than two hours, confine the puppy in the restricted area previously described such as in a kitchen or bathroom with the same precautions taken. Please ask your veterinarian for an opinion on how long your puppy can be expected to go without urinating or defecating, then decide whether or not the crate is an option for use during the amount of time you plan on being away. When you return home, immediately take the puppy to its “spot”.
BEDTIME: A young puppy’s last meal for the day should be before 8:00p.m. Follow that with drinks of water. After that final drink, remove the water bowl. Before
putting the puppy in its crate for bedtime, be sure the puppy has gone to its
elimination spot and used it. After saying goodnight to your puppy there could be some whines or yipping from the little one. Refrain from punishment and/or any verbal acknowledgement for the fussing and instead rest assured that the puppy will
eventually fall asleep since the puppy has been fed, given water and allowed its final elimination for the evening. |
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By adhering to a consistent schedule you can housebreak your puppy within a very short amount of time. Continue to monitor the puppy’s actions for several months. If the puppy soils in the house, be sure to clean the area immediately with a
commercial odor-eliminator or a solution of vinegar and water. If the puppy is allowed to “mark” places in the house, the puppy will continuously return to mark that spot. So with your consistent and attentive efforts in the beginning, hopefully you and your puppy can have long lasting results and an enjoyable time together in the home that you now share. |
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Again, congratulations on your new puppy! We hope this information on housebreaking will be helpful. Our professionals here at Cardinal Animal Hospital will continue striving to provide outstanding care for you and your pet. Thank you for your business and please contact us if you have any further questions or concerns. |
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GUIDE TO CRATE/CONFINEMENT TRAINING |
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Confinement training is intended to provide a comfortable bed, den, or play area for the dog, while restricting access to areas where it might soil, do harm to itself, or cause damage. Crate training should be considered akin to placing a young child in a playpen or crib for playtime or sleeping. Other alternatives for confinement include housing the dog in a pen, or dog-proofed room, where it might have more freedom to stretch out, chew, or play with its toys. If you don’t provide a safe confinement area at time that you cannot supervise, your dog will wander the home unsupervised and will likely engage in destructive chewing, roam through restricted areas eliminate in undesirable locations, and get into potentially dangerous situations.
The location and techniques used for training should be designed to keep the experience positive. For example, the dog should be encouraged to sleep, nap, or play with its chew toys in its confinement area. On the other hand, if the dog is confined at a time when it is in need of play, attention, or elimination, then escape attempts and anxiety are to be expected. If a dog’s attempts at escape are ever successful, then future, more ambitious attempts to escape are likely to occur. Therefore a secure, inescapable form of confinement should be utilized.
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Benefits of a Crate/Confinement Trained Dog
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Security- a specific area that serves as a den or resting area for the dog. |
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Safety for the pet. |
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Prevents damage (chewing, investigation, elimination, etc.) |
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Aids in the training of proper chewing and elimination by preventing
failure and encouraging success. |
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Traveling: accustoms the dog to confinement for traveling and boarding. |
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Improved relationship with your pet: fewer problems and therefore less
discipline for the pet and less frustration/anxiety for you. |
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Crate Training |
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A metal, collapsible crate with a tray floor or plastic traveling crate works
well provided it is large enough for the dog to stand and turn around.
Some dogs adapt quicker to a small room, run, or doggy playpen. |
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Because dogs are social animals, an ideal location for the crate is a room
that the family frequents such as a kitchen, den, or bedroom, rather than
an isolated laundry or furnace room. If you have observed your dog
choosing a particular corner or room to take a nap, or you wish your dog
to sleep in a particular location at night, then this might be the best
location for the crate. |
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For the crate to remain a positive retreat, it should not be used for
punishment. If social isolation (time-out) is used, consider placing the
dog in a laundry room or bathroom. |
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A radio or television may help to calm the dog and may help to mask
environmental noises that can trigger barking. |
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Puppies |
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Introduce the puppy to the crate as early in the day as possible. Place a few
treats, toys, or food in the crate so that the puppy is motivated to enter
voluntarily. Command training (e.g., “Go to your kennel”) can also be useful. |
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The first confinement session should be after a period of play, exercise, and
elimination (i.e., when the puppy is ready to take a nap). Place the puppy in
its crate with a toy and a treat and close the door. Alternatively, if the puppy
lies down to take a nap, move the puppy to the crate.
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Leave the room but remain close enough to hear the puppy. Some degree of
distress vocalized is to be expected the first few times the puppy is separated
from its family members. Never reward the pet by letting it out when it cries
or whines. Ignore it until the crying stops. Release the puppy when it wakes
or if you need to awaken the puppy for feeding, play, or elimination (e.g., prior
to your departure). |
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If crying does not subside on its own, a mild interruption may be useful. Any
interruption that causes fear or anxiety must be avoided since it is not mentally
healthy for the pet and could aggravate the vocalization or cause elimination
in the crate. During the interruption, you should remain out of sight, so that
the puppy does not learn to associate the interruption with your presence. A
sharp noise, such as that provided by a shaker can containing a few coins, can
be used to interrupt barking. A squirt from a water gun may also be effective.
Another way to discourage barking is to use a commercial bark-activated
device that produces an alarm or distracting spray when the puppy vocalizes. |
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Repeat the confinement training procedures a few more times
before bedtime. |
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Prior to bedtime, the puppy should be exercised and secured in its crate for the
night. Again, do not go to the pet if it is crying. If the puppy cries in the
middle of the night, it should be ignored or a brief interruption can be utilized
(as above). Then release the puppy when it is quiet and time to get up.
Puppies under four months of age may not be able to keep their crate clean for
the entire night, so an early morning walk may be necessary for the first few
weeks. Sometimes the best way to reduce distress vocalization is to locate the
crate in the bedroom. |
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Never leave the puppy in its crate for longer than it can control itself or it may
be forced to eliminate in the crate. If the puppy must be left for longer than it
can control elimination, access to an elimination area outdoors
may be necessary. |
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Until a puppy, has been housetrained (no accidents for at least four
consecutive weeks) and no longer destroys household objects in absence, it
should not be allowed out of its confinement area except under direct
supervision. While the puppy is out of its confinement area, constant
supervision is required so that undesirable behaviors can be interrupted and
desirable behaviors can rewarded.
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The Adult Dog |
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The most important principles for effective crate training include placing the
crate in a location where the dog feels comfortable about sleeping and
gradually introducing the dog to confinement in as positive a
manner as possible. |
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Set up the crate in the dog’s feeding area or sleeping area with the door open
for a few days. Place food, treats, and toys in the crate on its own. Once the
dog is entering the crate freely, it is time to close the door. |
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Follow steps one to four in puppy training above to accustom the dog to
confinement. Repeat these procedures for a few days, gradually increasing the
amount of time the dog must remain quietly in the crate before it is released. |
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Finally, the dog should be left in its crate during bedtime or during departures.
Try short departures first, and gradually make them longer. |
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Some dogs adapt quicker to crate training by having the dog sleep in the crate
at night. |
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If you are away from home four or more days per week, the pet should not be
left in the crate for more than about four hours during the day each day when
you are gone. |
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Crate Training Problems |
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If your dog is particularly anxious or eliminates in it’s crate, then it may be an indication that some part or the crate training technique needs to be revisited. |
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It may be possible that the dog is being left in its crate longer than it can
control elimination. Confine the dog for shorter periods of time and be certain
that it has eliminated prior to confinement. |
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If the crate is overly large some dogs may sleep in one end and eliminate in the
other. Consider a smaller crate or a divider. |
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If your dog is anxious or attempts to escape when left in its crate, then the dog
may not have been accustomed to its crate in a gradual and positive manner.
Review the steps above to ensure that the crate is in a comfortable bedding
location, that each crate introduction is positive, and that the crate is not used
for punishment. |
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If the dog has previously escaped from it’s crate, this serves to encourage
further escape attempts. Change to a more secure confinement area or ensure
that the crate is inescapable. It may then be necessary to supervise the dog in
its crate for a period of time to help reduce anxiety and deter further
escape attempts. |
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We hope this information will be helpful. Thank you for your business and please contact us if you have any further questions or concerns.
Cardinal Animal Hospital |
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PUPPY MOUTHING, NIPPING & BITING |
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1. No hard bites or pressure.
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a. When the puppy is calm, place your hand in its mouth and praise it when it
mouths softly.
b. Give an immediate, loud “ouch!” whenever the puppy applies too much
pressure, and stop playing with it. Once the puppy ceases, you can give it
an alternative form of play or attention (e.g., chew toy, exercise session,
training session) or a settle exercise (see our settle exercise handout), and
reward the desirable behavior.
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2. Mild attempts at deterring the puppy and physically discouraging the puppy can actually serve to increase the intensity of the play biting.
3. Gentle mouthing as a form of play is OK, but the puppy should not initiate it, and the family must be able to stop it on command. Any hard biting or over exuberant play must be discouraged.
4. Avoid tug of war if the pet becomes too excited, aggressive, or out of control. Tug of war games should only be allowed when you have initiated them and when you can quickly stop the game on command with an ouch, give, or drop command.
5. If the puppy is constantly demanding attention through mouthing and biting or is over exuberant in its play, then it is likely not receiving sufficient stimulation. You should consider additional or longer periods of play, training, exercise, and outlets for chewing to pre-empt the puppies unacceptable play biting.
6. If the puppy cannot be quickly calmed and settled, then confining it away from the target (e.g., children, visitors) until it settles may be necessary. When the puppy is calm, it can then be released, and encouraged to play in an appropriate manner.
7. For those problems that cannot be quickly and effectively controlled with bite inhibition techniques, a leash and head halter can be left attached when the puppy is with the family. Mouthing or biting can be immediately stopped with a pull on the leash, with tension released as soon as the puppy settles. The leash and head halter can also be used to teach the off command by first giving the command and if the puppy does not immediately cease, pulling the hand back and guiding the dog into the proper response with a pull on the leash.
8. In some homes, all forms of hard mouthing and play biting may be unacceptable for some puppies. This may be the case when there are elderly or young children in the home.
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We hope this information will be helpful. Thank you for your business and please contact us if you have any further questions or concerns.
Cardinal Animal Hospital |
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TEACHING OFF |
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Procedure:
1. Present a piece of food to get the pet’s attention, say “OK” in a friendly
tone of voice and give the food.
2. Present another piece of food and say “OFF” in a firm tone of voice, but
do not yell.
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a. If the puppy doesn’t make contact with your hand or the food for two
seconds, say, “OK” an give the food.
b. If the puppy touches your hand before the two seconds pass and
before you say “OK”, immediately yell “OFF” loud enough to make
the puppy back away without frightening it. Be dramatic, lean toward
the puppy, make eye contact, and give a forceful command.
c. Repeat; gradually increase the time the puppy has to wait.
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3. Once the puppy learns to back away from food on command, practice the
above exercise using only your hand. Later, repeat the exercise when the
puppy is in more excited moods.
4. Work toward the puppy not taking food, or touching your hand, no matter
how tasty the treat or how your hand is moving, once you have said “OFF”.
5. You must practice every day to attain a dependable response.
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We hope this information will be helpful. Thank you for your business and please contact us if you have any further questions or concerns.
Cardinal Animal Hospital |
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KITTEN HEALTH PROTOCOL |
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Cats can be a very important member of your family and are at this point in time the most popular pet in our country. It is our goal to keep them healthy and active well into their teens. We can achieve this with good preventative medicine as well as with the most up to date medical techniques. This all begins as a kitten and our recommendations for a long and healthy life are as follows.
When the kitten is 6 weeks of age we begin with a thorough physical exam, microscopically check a stool sample for intestinal parasites, test for Feline Leukemia Virus, and start on a vaccination program.
Feline Leukemia Virus is a very contagious, fatal disease of cats and we recommend testing your new kitten prior to any other procedures. If the test is negative we can vaccinate to prevent this disease from occurring.
In addition to Feline Leukemia vaccination we also vaccinate against Distemper, Calicivirus, Herpesvirus, and Chlamydia. Boosters are given every 3 weeks until the kitten reaches 4 months of age. These boosters are important due to the fact that the kitten’s immune systems are immature and are unable to maintain a good level of immunity until they are 16 weeks of age. At 16 weeks of age a Rabies vaccine is given to protect them from this very serious disease, which can also affect humans.
Intestinal parasites such as hookworms, roundworms, tapeworms and coccidia can seriously affect your kitten’s health and sometimes your childrens as well. Checking for these parasites and treating are a very important part of maintaining good health.
Heartworms are another serious parasite that are transmitted by mosquitoes. They get in to the blood stream and eventually end up in the heart where they can cause serious disease and even death. In cats there is no current treatment for heartworms. We can prevent this deadly disease by starting your kitten on a monthly topical preventative.
Proper nutrition is an integral part of keeping your new kitten healthy. We recommend feeding a good quality kitten food until 1 year of age. We feel that Science Diet Growth is unsurpassed as a diet for your kitten during that 1st year.
We also strongly urge you to spay and neuter your new kitten at 5-6 months of age. This not only prevents pregnancy but also lessens the chances of them developing mammary cancer, testicular cancer, and uterine infections. It also prevents unwanted behavioral problems such as urine spraying.
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We hope this information will be helpful. Thank you for your business and please contact us if you have any further questions or concerns.
Cardinal Animal Hospital
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GOOD BEHAVIOR FOR KITTENS |
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Exploring and playing are quite natural for most cats, especially kittens. However, these natural behaviors can escalate into unwanted scratching or biting of furniture, people, or other pets if the behaviors are not addressed with appropriate training. The playtime exercises suggested below will give you some ideas as to how to play or not to play with your kitten, while simultaneously teaching your
kitten good behavior.
Training simply involves using playing tactics with appropriate toys. Toys that dangle or could be chased are usually well liked by kittens. These types of toys can be
purchased at pet stores or sometimes created at home. Ping-pong balls and bouncy balls are sure favorites to use for swatting and chasing. Kittens are also fond of catnip stuffed toys. Short fishing rods, or plastic rods with strings securely attached can be used to cast small rubber, stuffed, or feather toys. You can use your
imagination in creating some of these toys at home but make certain these toys do not present a choking hazard for your kitten or other pets in the household.
Also, beware of houseplants that may be poisonous to your kitten or cat, such as a Tiger Lily, Easter Lily, Philodendron, and Dieffenbachia (search www.aspca.org for a more extensive list of common household poisonous plants). As well as certain plants, be careful of loose strings or pieces of yarn that can be ingested. Strings or pieces of yarn are a lot of fun for your kitten but make certain to use these
toys under supervision.
Before having playtime with your kitten be sure your kitten is in a safe environment. Sometimes barricades or closed doors can help the kitten stay in an area that has been cat-proofed. However, do not use punishments such as taste or odor repellants or traps to keep your kitten in certain areas. Also, NEVER use physical punishment to deter your kitten fro unwanted behaviors or explorations. Using a squirt bottle filled with water to spray or a can with coins or pebbles to shake for noise can
sometimes help.
Playtime 1: Interacting with your kitten should always be initiates by you and not the kitten. Choose a toy to play with and allow the kitten to become engaged in the play. Keep the kitten busy with the play and alternate toys if necessary. The longer the playtime the better so the kitten will have a good workout and not consider attacking you or the furniture. Also, while playing with the kitten be sure not to use your fingers or toes for the kitten to swat or bite since this form of play will teach the kitten it is appropriate to swat or bite at you and others. Thus, using the toys will help reinforce to the kitten that playtime does not involve hurting others or furniture.
Playtime 2: This playtime involves scratching posts, which will be used for
scratching while you are not necessarily interacting with the kitten. The scratching posts allow kittens and cats to stretch and condition their claws. Provide post either from a pet store or homemade with appealing textures and form. Carpet, sisal or course fabric is an appropriate cover for the structures. As for form, be certain the post is sturdy and will not topple over if the kitten jumps on top. Also, make sure it is tall enough for a good stretch. The introduction can be made more attractive to the kitten by attaching a dangling toy to the post or rubbing catnip on the surface areas. When you see your kitten scratching the post, reward the kitten with a food treat. This will help reinforce to the kitten that the post is an appropriate place to stretch instead of the furniture. If furniture scratching becomes a problem then try adding a post to that area, remembering to reward with a food treat when the
post is used.
Does trimming a cat’s nails help prevent excessive scratching?
By regularly trimming your cat’s nails it is possible to help reduce a cat’s need to scratch. The nail trimming service is provided at Cardinal Animal Hospital or you can condition your kitten to accept you to do the trimming. Please contact Cardinal Animal Hospital to receive a nail trimming demonstration from one of our
veterinarians or technicians if you are interested in safely trimming your kitten’s nails at home.
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We hope this information will be helpful. Thank you for your business and please contact us if you have any further questions or concerns.
Cardinal Animal Hospital
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LITTER BOX TRAINING MADE EASY |
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Congratulations on your new bundle of fur! Perhaps you are eager to help your kitten become litter box trained and you may also be ready to help prevent or
understand unwanted accidents and sprayings. The following information can help with litter box training and also give some insight to problems that may occur with your new kitten regarding his/ her litter box.
The first step in helping your kitten become litter box trained is acquiring the
appropriate litter box and litter for your unique kitten. Does your kitten need a
covered box or a simple open box, perfumed litter or basic litter? Does your kitten need a lot of depth of litter in the box? Your kitten’s first introduction to his/her new box and litter will help reveal what he/she will prefer to use. An idea for
determining your kitten’s choice is to place two kinds of litter (clay, clumping, recycled paper, pearls, scented, or unscented) next to each other and watch to see which of the two your kitten chooses. The same scenario can be done to determine box type and litter depth, as well. Also keep in mind that one litter box per cat in each household is recommended. This gives each cat his/her own sense of territory and helps him/her have needed privacy. As for cleaning the litter box, it should be scooped daily and replaced weekly along with a complete cleaning of the litter box.
The next step in litter box training is finding the most appropriate place for the box. Cats seemingly prefer privacy, so placing the litter box in a somewhat private area can be helpful. However, make sure the litter box is in a pleasant area for the kitten and not in a frightening place such as next to a furnace. Also, remember not to place the litter box in proximity to the kitten’s food and/or water for sanitary reasons.
Marking or Medical?
After determining your kitten’s preferences regarding his/her litter box, litter and special area it is possible that your kitten may begin to eliminate in unwanted areas. The first approach in determining why this is occurring is to rule out and medical problems that may exist. Diseases or problems that affect feline elimination are kidney disease, diabetes, bladder disease, arthritis, hormonal disturbances, and
nervous system diseases. If your kitten or cat is eliminating in unwanted areas after being litter box trained, or frequently eliminating contact Cardinal Animal Hospital for a thorough exam.
After ruling out any medical reasons for your cat’s soiling in the house, the next
consideration is possible markings. A few reasons for marking include the
introduction of new animals or people to the household, moving to a new home, new odors, (possibly from carpet, furniture, air fresheners, etc.), or other cats coming to close to the house. Since felines can be territorial, a common response to any new inhabitant within the home or another animal outside would case the cat to mark inside the house to redefine his/her territory.
Possible Solutions to Marking
Neutering or spaying is an option to consider for the prevention of marking. About 90% of neutered male cats do not continue to spray following their neutering
procedure. As for other animals venturing too close to the house outside, it can be practical to keep your cat away from the area where it sees or hears the other
animals. This can be accomplished by keeping the windows covered or stacking empty soda cans (or other noise makers) in that area to prevent the cat from
attempting to look out the window. If the marking can be attributed to new people or pets being introduced to the household then contact Cardinal Animal Hospital for advice on behavior, or for a recommendation of an animal behavioral consultant. Most importantly, do NOT in anyway physically harm your kitten or cat when the markings occur (i.e. rubbing his/her nose in the mess, or swatting at his/her nose or body). Finally, reevaluate the location and style of the litter box, the litter, and the depth and cleaning schedule of the litter for possible solutions to
unwanted markings.
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We hope this information will be helpful. Thank you for your business and please contact us if you have any further questions or concerns.
Cardinal Animal Hospital
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WHY SHOULD YOU SPAY YOUR FEMALE DOG? |
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Spaying your female dog is a surgical procedure usually performed at 6 to 8 months of age. Spaying your dog at this time can provide the following benefits: |
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Eliminates unwanted heats and the constant protection from male dogs. |
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Eliminates the messy discharge and odor associated with estrus. |
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Done prior to the first heat, spaying greatly reduces the risk of
mammary cancer. |
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Helps control the pet population crisis by avoiding unwanted pregnancies. |
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Protects your dog against the risk of ovarian & uterine cancer & infection. |
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There is no scientific or other evidence that you will in any way benefit from, having a heat and/or litter before spaying. Although hormonal changes after the surgery may temporarily increase her appetite, weight gain can be controlled by adjustment of the type or amount of food given.
Unless you are sincerely convinced that you want your dog to have a litter, we
recommend that you call for an appointment soon. Please call us at 336-668-9475 if you have any questions regarding this important procedure.
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We hope this information will be helpful. Thank you for your business and please contact us if you have any further questions or concerns.
Cardinal Animal Hospital |
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WHY SHOULD YOU NEUTER YOUR MALE DOG? |
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Your new puppy is approaching 6 months of age, which is an ideal time to neuter him. Altering at six months of age will help prevent many annoying behavioral
problems and reduce the risk of many medical problems as well. Here is a brief list of likely benefits: |
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Altering your pet will not change your pet’s personality except to make him a calmer, more devoted pet. The surgery will not cause him to become fat and lazy. Any older, less active animal may experience weight gain, which can be controlled by proper diet and exercise.
Unless you are convinced that you will want to show or breed your puppy, we
recommend that you call for a surgical appointment soon. Please call us at 336-668-9475 if you have any questions regarding this important procedure.
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We hope this information will be helpful. Thank you for your business and please contact us if you have any further questions or concerns.
Cardinal Animal Hospital |
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WHY SHOULD YOU SPAY YOUR FEMALE CAT? |
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Spaying your female cat is a surgical procedure usually performed at 6 to 8 months of age. Spaying your kitten at this time can provide the following benefits:
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There is no scientific or other evidence that you will in any way benefit from, having a heat and/or litter before spaying. Although hormonal changes after the surgery may temporarily increase her appetite, weight gain can be controlled by adjusting the type or amount of food given.
Unless you are sincerely convinced that you want your cat to have a litter, we
recommend that you call for an appointment soon. Feel free to call us at 336-668-9475 if you have any questions regarding this important procedure.
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We hope this information will be helpful. Thank you for your business and please contact us if you have any further questions or concerns.
Cardinal Animal Hospital |
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WHY SHOULD YOU NEUTER YOUR MALE CAT? |
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Your new kitten is approaching 6 months of age, which is an ideal time to neuter him. When done early, this surgical procedure will eliminate many unwanted
behavioral problems, which develop with sexual maturity and can significantly lengthen your cat’s life. Here is a brief list of expected benefits: |
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Altering your pet will not change your pet’s personality except to make him a calmer, more devoted pet. The surgery will not cause him to become fat and lazy. Any older, less active animal may experience weight gain, which can be controlled by proper diet and exercise.
Unless you are convinced that you will want to show or breed your kitten, we recommend that you call for a surgical appointment soon. Feel free to call us at 336-668-9475 if you have any questions regarding this important procedure.
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We hope this information will be helpful. Thank you for your business and please contact us if you have any further questions or concerns.
Cardinal Animal Hospital |
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HOT & COLD WEATHER TIPS FOR YOUR PET |
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HOT WEATHER
• Never leave your pet alone in a vehicle. The temperature inside vehicles can rise very quickly even if the vehicle is parked in
the shade. Your pet can quickly overheat.
• If your dog stays out doors, provide it with plenty of cool water and a shady area.
• Brachycephalic dogs (short or snub nose dogs such as bull dogs, pugs, Boston terriers, lhasa apsos, and shih tzus) are very sensitive to hot weather.
• Antifreeze and vehicle coolant is poisonous to animals. Even a
small amount leaking from a car, ingested by your pet,
can be fatal.
• Avoid taking your pet on walks or runs during the hottest part of
the day. Chose the early morning or evening hours when the
weather is cooler.
• Don’t leave your dog standing on hot asphalt. It can burn your
dog’s paws and cause his body temperature to rise.
• Keep your longhaired dog groomed. Trimming and brushing out
the undercoat will keep him much cooler.
COLD WEATHER
• During our cold months cats like to get up inside engines of cars
for the warmth the engine provides. A lot of cats are injured
or killed when the car is started. If there are outdoor cats in
your neighborhood, bang on the hood of your car to scare
away any cats that may be up in your engine.
• Do not have an outdoor dog trimmed in the winter. The fur
provides insulation against the cold.
• After your pet comes in from a walk in the snow, wipe off their feet and legs. If your pet licks his paws before they are wiped off, he may ingest ice melt, which can be toxic.
• Never leave your pet in your vehicle alone in the winter.
Temperatures fall quickly in a car just as quickly as they rise in the summer.
• If you own a breed with short hair, consider getting a sweater
or a coat.
• If your pet has a condition such as arthritis, minimize his trips outside. Leave him out only long enough to relieve him/herself.
• Do not leave your pet outside on snow and ice for long periods of
time. Their sensitive paws can crack and bleed from the cold.
• Always make sure your pet has a warm place to sleep at night
away from drafts.
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We hope this information will be helpful. Thank you for your business and please contact us if you have any further questions or concerns.
Cardinal Animal Hospital |
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COMMON FOODS THAT ARE TOXIC TO YOUR PET |
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*This list does not include ALL toxic foods. However, it does contain some of most common. If your pet ingests any of these foods or any food that you are concerned about, please contact us immediately!
Chocolate, Coffee, Tea & Colas
All of these foods contain two kinds of toxins, caffeine and theobromine. These toxins have the same effect on animals and humans. However, in animals these effects can be life threatening. They increase heart rates and breathing and can also stimulate the central nervous system.
Symptoms: Vomiting, diarrhea, panting, hyperactivity, restlessness, ataxia (lack of coordination in the limbs, inability to walk and/or stand), muscle tremors, increased or decreased heart rate, irregular heart rhythm, increased body temperature,
seizures, coma, abdominal pain, bloody urine, and/or possible death.
Grapes & Raisins
These seemingly healthy treats contain a toxin that can cause kidney failure.
Symptoms: Vomiting, diarrhea, lack of appetite, lethargy and/or abdominal pain.
Macadamia Nuts
These contain a toxin that affects the muscles, digestive system, and nervous system. If the nuts are covered in chocolate there is the risk of the
toxins in chocolate.
Symptoms: Lethargy, vomiting, hypothermia (decreased body temperature), ataxia (lack of coordination in the limbs), and/or hind leg paralysis.
Bones
All dogs love to chew on bones, however, bones are not good chew toys for your pet. Fish and poultry bones splinter easily when they are chewed. If your pet swallows the bone fragments, they can perforate the intestines.
Onions & Garlic
These foods (fresh or dried) contain a chemical that damages red blood cells in the body. This leads to anemia. Cats seem to be more sensitive than dogs, but these foods are toxic to both species.
Symptoms: Vomiting, diarrhea, anemia, discolored urine, weakness, liver damage, and allergic reaction.
Baby Food
Many baby foods are toxic because they contain onion powder.
Salty & Sugary Foods & Table Scraps
All of these foods can cause diarrhea and stomach upset. They can also lead to
obesity in your pet as well. Veterinarians recommend avoiding giving any human food to your pet. A well-balanced dog food provides all of the calories, vitamins, minerals, and nutrients that your pet will need. Check with our veterinarian to find out about healthy treats for your pet.
A well-balanced diet, regular check ups with your veterinarian, and annual health screenings will all help to keep your pet in the best health possible.
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We hope this information will be helpful. Thank you for your business and please contact us if you have any further questions or concerns.
Cardinal Animal Hospital |
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COMMON PLANTS THAT ARE TOXIC TO YOUR PET |
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* This list does not contain ALL toxic plants. However, these are some of the most common. If your pet ingests any of these plants or any plant you are concerned about, contact us immediately! |
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Chrysanthemum |
Cyclamen |
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Amaryllis |
Fox Glove |
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English Ivy |
Clematis |
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Autumn Crocus |
Oleander |
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Mum |
Caladium |
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Easter Lilly |
Azalea |
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Daffodil |
Holly |
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Calla Lilly |
Mistletoe |
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Tulips |
Poinsettia |
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Lilly of the Valley |
Iris |
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Mushrooms |
Gladiolas |
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Hyacinth |
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We hope this information will be helpful. Thank you for your business and please contact us if you have any further questions or concerns.
Cardinal Animal Hospital |
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